Pulling on Leash

sueHME · #1 21st May 2012, 11:47 PM

So I just got my brindle Boxer Titus last month, he's 9 months old now. I absolutely love him, he's the biggest, sweetest goofball and just 5 minutes of playtime with him completely de-stresses me. He had a few bad habits like nipping/hard mouthing and jumping up when I got him, but he's responded really well to my teaching him "Off" and "Gently". Now, when we go on walks, I can tell him either "Walk" or "Run" depending on which we do, and he knows exactly what I want. But when he sees other people or dogs he lunges and pulls to go say hi, in a very non-agressive way. I know I just need to stand still so he doesn't learn pulling rewards him with what he wants, but I worry when he starts coughing and gagging from yanking his leash. What's the best option? A harness, a head halter? And will a harness still give me enough control over him? He's strong and is only going to get stronger, I worry because even now if my feet aren't planted he can yank me along with him. Just wondering what you all have found to work the best. Thanks!
Sue, Titus' DogMom

LILYLARUE · #2 22nd May 2012, 08:01 AM

There are two harnesses I would suggest. The Easy-Walk Harness by Premier. It hooks in the front of the chest with a martingale loop. This is an ideal harness for extreme pullers. I would suggest one thing though, get a martingale collar with it and hook the rings on both to the leash clip. Also, the trick to this harness is keeping your leash short to start, only about 2 ft between your hand and the dog. Then keep your hand at your thigh AT ALL TIMES. This will keep the leash as horizontal as comfortable, giving you leverage. The concept of the harness is that all correcting is done to the side, not back or up. Keep the leash on your side of the dog, not over the back. Then, if you have to redirect - while keeping your hand on your thigh, turn away from the dog, where your leg is the fulcrum point at which the dog is directed from. You will have complete control of your dog and directing him with little effort - as you will be using your body and not just your arm.

The second harness, which I never suggest for pullers, is the Freedom Harness by Wags, Wiggles and Wiskers. This harness is great for dogs that may step out of other harnesses and has a martingale loop on the back with a second connection ring on the center chest for dual training.

As with any training tool, it takes diligence and consistancy to make it affective. No tool works without proper use and human direction.

Gilbert · #3 22nd May 2012, 08:01 AM

I have the same problem with Achilles and IMO the only way to solve the issue is to teach them to heel or settle down during walks.

I only say that cause i still have had "0" success with the different leashes and harnesses.

Gentle Leader Head Harness- with the way it sits it cause the strap to pull at the lower eye lids. Achilles never got used to it and when your dog does decide to run and lunge at something it looks gross and painfull.

Easy walk harness- If install snuggly it gives him rug burn on the back of his legs and chest. If installed a little looser the part with the D ring in front of the chest gets pulled up and he chokes himself similar to wearing a regular collar.

Regular harness- he is way stronger with his pull.

Regular collar- chokes himself.

I am still yet to master the walk so im just giving you some of my experience before you go out and buy a $30 harness.

Gilbert · #4 22nd May 2012, 08:09 AM

LILYLARUE thanks for the insight on the easy walk harness. I was letting Achilles get some distance from me while using it. I guess that what the problem is ill have to try it out your way, but i have noticed that i do have the most control over him with this harness.

janmark · #5 22nd May 2012, 12:26 PM

We lover our Easy Walk Harness. It's like night and day when I don't have it.

LILYLARUE · #6 23rd May 2012, 07:19 AM

Back story: With my business, I have a provisional patent on my product called "Strap Wraps". These eliminate the rubbing, chafing and bruising that most harnesses cause. I actually made the first set in Oct 2010 for a pit bull that was doused in gasoline and set on fire. After 3 skin grafts, and 90% hairloss with lots of scar tissue, any type of collar or harness would rip her skin open. It was just so sad. So I reached out and designed the first set. It was so awesome to hear she was out for pain-free walks. Before she would cower in her kennel when it was time for her walks.....but after receiving my Strap Wraps and harness, she was jumping for joy to go out! Talk about an amazing story! After that, I sent in my patent and started producing them for donation to any pit bull, or other dog, that was severely burned, has skin issue and mange. If one of my customers who recently had to have surgery on her Akita for torn ligaments in the arm pits, had known about my wraps, it may have been prevented. But, nonetheless, the dog now sports a special custom harness that won't cause any more damage. I called them Harness Helper originally, which then became the start and name for my dog business now. I wish every commercial harness had some type of padding to prevent injuries, but that's how they all stay in business - customers have to buy several til they find one that will actually fit properly. I make a version of the Easy-Walk, taking into consideration all the faults of the design and fixing them. I have yet to have a complaint on any injuries. If only other companies would take such care in their customers needs and safe, comfortable products. I feel if the dog is uncomfortable, the walk won't be enjoyed for either human or dog. Fit of the harness is so important.

One with the topic......

When I teach people to use the Easy-Walk harness, I start them off with a strap that goes around the thigh with a loop to keep their hand in position. This is crucial to the function of the harness. Plus it teaches the handler to keep it in position naturally after a few trips out.

My customers always ask me...."Will I have to keep him by my side all the time now?" I say, "NO, but it is important to teach the dog a good heal and a good walk before allowing a looser leash. He must learn proper position for times where it is needed. But after a while, then you can command another behavior, like "Stretch Out" which lets them know they are free to forge ahead on a longer lead. And use "Come Close" for them to come back close and then "heal"." Its baby steps in any type of training. Short term consectutive commands that the dog can follow. Of course as the dog gets more experienced, the commands will come quicker and more speedy as they learn what is expected.

Now those head halters......I have mixed feelings. Most handlers I see do NOT use them properly, nor initiate the use correctly. I rarely see one fit right, or a dog happy to have one one. With boxers, there is only one that I would recommend that was designed by Nancy Williams, world known behaviorist and trainer. She designed it specifically to fit short nosed dogs. It also doesn't put pressure on the sensitive zones in the nose. It's called "Snoot Loop". You can only buy them from her, dogswithissues.com. She doesn't brand the halter. Which tells me, she's not into the profit, but to offer a great product for her clients while in training.

As I said before, the product will not be a miracle pill for behaviors. You MUST train with the tool. Putting on a properly designed, comfortable, safe harness will not fix the dog. It's up to the handler to use the tool only to teach proper behaviors. But as I will always repeat, I believe harnesses, properly fit and used, to be the safest restraint product for dogs. It gives the handler control in the most dangerous circumstances without causing injuries to the dog. I have seen dogs with fractured necks, ruptured tracheas, spinal injuries and death because they lunged on a collar. I won't say it WIlLL happen, but the potential is always there for any dog. Some dogs just walk beautifully, but things can happen.....collar snaps and recall is horrible.

As a reminder - always check weekly the condition of any product your dog is wearing. We often forget that things will tear, break or rip. So, always inspect every stitch point, every peice of hardware and double check fit. As it gets worn it will stretch. So it's important to readjust every so often for proper fit.

sueHME · #7 30th May 2012, 08:32 AM

Thank you everyone for the input!! I think I'm going to try the gentle lead... we'll see if that helps. He's doing much better everywhere except the dog part

TwoDogs · #8 30th May 2012, 11:00 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LILYLARUE

The second harness, which I never suggest for pullers, is the Freedom Harness by Wags, Wiggles and Wiskers. This harness is great for dogs that may step out of other harnesses and has a martingale loop on the back with a second connection ring on the center chest for dual training.

LILY, just curious why you don't recommend the Freedom for pullers. I've had great success with it.

LILYLARUE · #9 31st May 2012, 10:26 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by TwoDogs

LILY, just curious why you don't recommend the Freedom for pullers. I've had great success with it.

I should have said extreme pullers and breeds that are working dogs that want to work by pulling. I find they still pull on back hooking harnesses. One thing too, If a dog is a lunger, it's tough to redirect from the back. Much easier to redirect from the front where you have greater chance of turning them away from what they are reactive to. Due to this, I have designed a front martingale and back martingale harness that uses a dual lead just for these reactive types. Gives the handler the option of minor corrections from the back hook and redirections from the front hook. But it takes some coordination and a easy to teach handler. LOL

Otherwise, I too, have had great success with the Freedom Harnesses.

TwoDogs · #10 31st May 2012, 08:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LILYLARUE

I find they still pull on back hooking harnesses. One thing too, If a dog is a lunger, it's tough to redirect from the back. Much easier to redirect from the front where you have greater chance of turning them away from what they are reactive to.

Lungers are the ones that I find the Easy Walk is most apt to slip out of position on. These are the dogs that I specifically recommend the Freedom for, LOL!

I agree that the rear martingale action of the Freedom can have little effect on some dogs. That's why I don't clip just to the rear point. I prefer to use the Freedom with a double ended leash--one end clipped to the rear, martingale ring and the other leash end clipped to the front ring. I don't recommend that handlers try and "steer from the rear" attachment but instead lead from the front attachment the same way one might if they were using the Easy Walk Harness. I recommend that handlers engage the rear martingale action of the Freedom in order to keep the harness in position on the dog while simultaneously redirecting the dog with the other end that is attached to the front.